Setting the Scene

Setting the Scene at Alter Rock

The latest news on routes and problems

Latest Update -Thursday 12th April

Setting…

Iain Moodie came in yesterday Wednesday 11th April to set 18 routes over 6 lines. Before we go into that a bit Steve McClure is in Tuesday 16th April to set boulders panels 3,4,5 & 6. Climb the existing problems before they are removed and get ready for the coming new set.

What went up:

21   Swirl 2    Pink 6a+      Green 7a+

30   Swirl 5   Orange 6a+   White 6b

32   Red 5     Lime 6a+        White 7a+

37   Blue 4    Red 6a           Green 6c

40  Lime 1    Orange 2       White 3+

47   Blue 3+  Green 5+       Pink 6a+

Pink is not hard for a 6a+ making good use of the volumes. Line 30 is set for lap training. Now the Lime 6a+ on line 32 is hard but is it once you know what you need to do? Its not straight forward climbing. I dislike the blue holds that make the 4 on line 37, it goes but I always feel I am going to slip off. Be brave on the red 6a, you won’t slip on the foot hold you just think you will, easy once done. 3 easy lines on 40 good for first timers who are improving and trying to learn technique, good for first lead. All routes can be rainbowed if they feel too hard. Finally back with the blues I dislike, line 47 3+ , green 5+ I think I got wrong handed on this one it felt hard and the Pink 6a+ feels hard but not that hard felt easier than the green. These 3 routes have sustained climbing, no rests so perhaps they should be graded harder. Reasonable moves between holds just lots of hard moves.

Please print and bring on your next climb and tick them as you do them. Happy to read any comments if you want to leave you sheet at the desk.

Smart 2.0

Please watch the link they state it “completely Blocks the Rope” what could be safer or Smarter?

2 Links for you to watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWNgz8QPsK4

Mammut – Smart 2.0 – Belay device

Want to know more about Steve McClure?

Beyond Limits – “A life through climbing” ISBN-10:1910240192

http://www.steve-mcclure.com/autobiography-beyond-limits

The link  below is worth a look, some great photos of Mark “Zippy” Pretty with Ben Moon both with (great) hair.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/mark_’zippy’_pretty_and_andy_pollitt-9762

Garry


Lots more tips about climbing on our blog page.

 

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