Do I need coaching? Do you want to get better at climbing?
Yes we have had more setting done. Steve McClure Tuesday 13th November. Numbers 1 – 28 are up and they are not that hard due to the panels they have been set on. Most of the problems require good use of all volumes.
In the last set blue holds made a rock over using a mono facing left these have been rotated to make the same moves facing right, problem 13. Pink problems 12 & 18 are symmetrical. The start of problem 10, blue holds is a thumb sprag. And 16 is a dyno using pinks and volumes but for the tall you should be able to do this static.
THUMB SPRAG. Esoteric technique of using any available edge in a crack. When a crack is too thin to actually fit the fingers in, you can still gain some purchase with thumb sprags (which, confusingly, also involve the fingers). Requires very strong hands to be used for any length of time.
The link below shows James Garden who used to set for us on ropes and problems.
This week the set has been changed due to a very busy day at the centre on Wednesday. Steve McClure is now coming in Friday 23rd November to set long ropes on 6 lines and then Iain Moodie has been rescheduled to Monday 26th setting again long routes.
Please look at the setting board to see which lines are coming off and climb them for the last time next week before being replaced.
Lots more tips about climbing on our blog page.